Feel the fear


One of the most breathtaking places this planet has to offer. City life. Countryside. And of course, a beach that many cannot rival.

And today, was all about meeting her after only flirting with the waves of Portugal two years ago along the Camino De Santiago with my Dad.

It began as a hesitant relationship. The wind was up and the crowd was full. The recommendation from the young man named Eduardo, who would become a good friend, was to rock booties, or sneakers, for surfing. And if you’ve never worn them before it would be like asking a hockey player to play with Jordan’s on. Doable, but pretty weird.

Into the rocky floor went the 7’6” board and a fresh fish to this part of the Atlantic and after a few windswept falls and below average attempts my booties and my booty took it to shore.

As i laid there, taking in the scenery of the world class break known as Ribeira d’Ilhas, i did what anyone would do, started to analyze what went wrong.

It became clear that i was in my head, concerned about rocks, local surfers and basically everything i could NOT control.

So yea, after that monologue i went back out and surfed some of the most fun waves of my life. A clear mind. A massive smile. And even a few fist pumps (????).

Afterwards, i got to hang out with both Eduardo and his younger brother, Pedro. The elder always looking out for his little bro and the young man always admiring his hero from afar.

We talked about life, Portugal and of course, their home–the water.

Before leaving i asked Pedro, who was oozing swag, ‘So, do you want to be a professional surfer?’

Without flinching he states, ‘No.’

Then smiles the smile only someone who is fearless can flash.

‘I want to be a professional skateboarder.’

With that simple conversation it reminded me that feeling fear, hearing ‘noise’ and concerning ourselves with things we cannot control is real.

And then a quote a friend of mine once said came into my mind and hasn’t left since:

‘Feel the fear. And do it anyway.’



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